Laissez les bon temp rouler!
Baby, it’s time to get our buns back to New Orleans! We’ve done, seen and eaten so many things there already, but we’ve only scratched the surface of all there is to see and do in the Big Easy. This time around we’re going to do it up even better (if that’s possible). Firstly, it’s going to be full-on Summer this time, so brace yourself and bring your portable neck fan! In fact, bring a paper fan, too! Seriously. It’s HOT! Get ready for a round 2 swamp tour, plantation visits, even more food than we ate last time, and obviously more booze! I love you so much. Let’s do this! C’mon c’mon!
Editor’s Note: All of the blurbs below are cobbled together from various online travel sources with a few choice words tossed in there by me.
Where We’re
Staying
hotel peter & paul – 2317 Burgundy St
Food & Drink
chomp, chomp, chomping our way through nola!
Eat. Drink. Repeat.
New Orleans’s gastronomic influences are celebrated across the city, with Cajun, Creole, French, Italian, and soul food interacting in almost infinite ways. Because of this global mix, New Orleans cuisine is some of the most singular in the country—dishes like beignets, muffuletta sandwiches, po’boys, oysters Rockefeller, and bananas foster originated here, after all. Whether you dine at one of the century-old institutions in the French Quarter, or in any of the new restaurants that are bringing fresh flavors to the table, there’s no denying this is one of the world’s great food towns. Let’s get to it!
bacchanal
A Bywater bottle shop that happens to host the city's best backyard parties. And guess what? Everyone's invited! The backyard patio pulses nightly with live music and a sea of heads bobbing along to it. It rattles and hums like the rest of NOLA's great jazz clubs, but it's free of Bourbon Street buffoonery and full of great wine and food.
RUBY SLIPPER
My favorite Bywater breakfast spot (They’ve recently become a local chain but this one is the only one to go to in my opinion). They offer delectible brunch specials, seasonal cocktails, and New Orleans classics with local twists such as the Shrimp Boogaloo Benedict and the Grilled Fish St. Peter. A truly authentic New Orleans breakfast.
Central grocery
Established in 1906, Central Grocery Store is home of the original (and BEST) muffuletta sandwich and the famous Sicilian olive salad made daily. Imitated by many, duplicated by none. Sofia Coppola’s go-to NOLA sandwich shop. The mufuletta is an absolute must.
shaya
SO GOOD! Marries Israeli staples with Southern flavors and modern techniques, striking a balance between innovation and tradition. Located on Magazine Street in the Touro neighborhood, Shaya has deftly incorporated Louisiana-inspired cuisine into its Mediterranean menu since it opened its mint green doors. And did we mention the romantically lit back patio? The contemporary menu reflects the ongoing evolution of Israeli food and celebrates the abundance of Louisiana.
napoleon house
A 200-year old landmark that's as casual and unique as its French Quarter surroundings. The cocktail list is unswervingly traditional, and the bartenders send out Sazeracs and Brandy Milk Punches all day and night. The signature drinks, though, all come from their Pimms Cup selections, the Satsuma Pimms being probably the most exotic and refreshing. Napoleon House also serves classic New Orleans cuisine, including the (second) best muffuletta in town, and Pimm's cups.
the joint
The Joint is known for serving the best BBQ in New Orleans. The restaurant's slogan, "always smoking," is a true testament to The Joint's dedication to serving the most delicious and authentic Southern BBQ dishes and sides in the city. BBQ enthusiasts claim The Joint deserves all the hype and praise it receives, and say that this "joint" should not be missed.
sylvain
Downtown attitudes, uptown ingredients. An unruly Southern bistro for locals in the French Quarter with inspired cocktails that riff on the classics. Here, we laugh loudly, shoot whiskey, and linger among friends old and new. A favorite of the AHS cast when they were shooting in NOLA.
n7
Founded by filmmaker Aaron Walker and chef Yuki Yamaguchi, N7 specializes in French cuisine, often infused with a Japanese touch. The restaurant is set off the street behind a tall fence amidst a garden, with indoor and outdoor seating. The building was previously home to a tire shop. Before that it was a stable for carriage horses.
st. roch market
Located on the historic St. Claude Avenue, St. Roch Market is the iconic community food hall that has been recreated from its original version to present fresh produce and prepared food from 13 different vendors. From specialty coffee to po-boys and drinks at the bar, the market hosts a variety of locally acclaimed chefs and cuisine. Great spot for lunch and a cocktail!
arnaud’s
A NOLA classic. Since its inception in 1918, Arnaud's has remained true to its traditions and courtesies. Offering live Dixieland Jazz in the Jazz Bistro, romantic dinners in the Main Dining Room, cocktails in the award-winning French 75 Bar and an assortment of private French Quarter fine dining rooms, Arnaud's offers the quintessential New Orleans dining experience.
port of call
Hefty burgers, loaded baked potatoes, STRONG cocktails & a jukebox draw lines at this 50-year-old dive. Voted the best burger in New Orleans, the Port of Call was established in 1963 as a quiet, small neighborhood restaurant open only at night and is now world famous for its burgers and steaks. Located on beautiful, historic Esplanade Avenue in the French Quarter.
dooky chase’s
For seven decades, Dooky Chase was led by the world-famous, Chef Leah Chase. Her award-winning Creole cuisine, love for community, fight for equality, and unmatched sense of hospitality and love can still be felt with around each table and with each meal shared at Dooky Chase. This is the restaurant of James Beard Award Winner, Leah Chase, who won 2016 Lifetime Achievement Award.
cafe du monde
Since 1862, the Original French Market coffee stand. Serving cafe au lait and Beignets 24 hours daily. A tourist mecca, to be sure, but you gotta go –head there early or late to avoid mid-day crowds. Taste the original Beignet, Louisiana's state donut, coffee with chicory and half hot milk...cafe au lait.
the franklin
A favorite spot for drinks and a bite in The Bywater. Housed in a former corner grocery store, The Franklin embraces its neighborhood's vibrant and eclectic personality. They feature an elevated but casual culinary and bar experience, thoughtful art collection and spirited staff.
jack dempsey’s
As the Bywater dining scene has largely shifted towards the new, trendy, and exploratory, this Poland Avenue haunt has stood its ground, remaining one of the only classic New Orleans dinner joints in the area. Expect large portions of fried and boiled seafood favorites, like catfish, redfish, oysters, and shrimp, as well as po'boys, stuffed flounder, and surf-and-turf plates. It's a fun, casual spot, and you will not leave hungry.
antoine’s
Antoine's has been operated by the same family, without interruption for 182 years. A NOLA institution, I recommend going for a more casual pre-fixe lunch with cocktail specials. Antoine's cuisine is original New Orleans with French and Creole backgrounds. One of the richest wine cellars in America is found here.
cochon butcher
A butcher shop, a sandwich counter and a wine bar attached to its fancier big sister restaurant, Cochon. Butcher offers small plates, daily lunch specials and dinner entrees. Inspired by old-world meat markets, Butcher specializes in house made meats, terrines and sausages.
VERTI marte
Instagram-ready sandwich shop this is not. Verti Marte is a little counter in the back of a French Quarter bodega, and it's legit. The sandwich to snag here is the All That Jazz po' boy, a saucy kitchen sink combo of grilled ham, turkey, shrimp, American and Swiss cheese, mushrooms, tomatoes, and a mustard-spiked "wow sauce." We hear it gets better as the night wears on. The place is open 24/7 and has seen it all here in NOLA's home of hedonism.
guys po-boys
The wait at Guy's is clearly worth it—you know, because everyone's too busy housing their po' boy to even breathe. Keep it classic with a fully dressed, and thoughtfully fried, shrimp po' boy, and don't forget to tip Marvin—the 'guy,' himself, and fryer tender.
bywater american bistro
An eclectic menu with dishes like jerk chicken rice and crispy hogs head boudin. Gulf fish are presented in nuanced, thoughtful ways, as is the rabbit curry. Weekend brunch alone is a reason to come, especially for the Proper Breakfast, a local take on a British fry-up. A small cocktail list packs in a lot of diversity.
commander’s palace
The food is traditional fine dining, with a genteel, buttoned-down clientele and an enforced dress code (collared shirts, close-toed shoes). All in all, this restaurant belongs on any list of must-dine places in New Orleans, good for a lunchtime bite or a four-hour indulgence for a birthday or anniversary. Never been. LOL.
saturn bar
Before St. Claude Avenue became a happening entertainment scene, Saturn Bar was a thing. This quintessential Bywater dive always looks closed, but don’t let the ratty exterior scare you off. Inside you’ll find feisty bartenders, signed pictures of the Rolling Stones (they partied here back in the day), piano nights, and DJ-led dance parties.
vaughan’s lounge
Vaughan’s is a joy, guaranteed to deliver cheap drinks, good music, and the kind of conviviality that you hope for when stumbling into a dive bar. If you’re lucky there will be a pot of delicious red beans and rice in the back, which customers are welcome to scoop for free.
the saint
An awesome dive in the LGD with fantastic bartenders, a full bar, daiquiris, a photo booth, and a free jukebox on Sundays. Expect a sweaty dance floor and debauchery on weekends, when it’s open until...very late.
country club
Previously an LGBT haven (Beyonce’s visit ruined that -long story), the novelty of a backyard pool in a residential area now attracts a diverse crowd seeking fun in the sun—and a full cabana bar. Up front, The Country Club has a large bar area and a cozy restaurant with a multi-parlor and front porch setup. Drag Brunch takes over every first Saturday and third Sunday, and packs a performative punch alongside $10 bottomless mimosas.
loretta’s authentic pralines
Miss Loretta Harrison's magical blend of sugar, milk, butter, and pecans made her famous decades ago, but her one-of-a-kind beignets are a more recent development —and what a welcome addition they are, incorporating fat lumps of buttery, sauteed crab meat; a slider-like burger with traditional fixins'; or an award-winning praline recipe that was passed down three generations.
dat dog
A fun, delicious spot for unique cuisine with a New Orleans twist. Boasting three locations (Marigny, Garden District and Uptown), take your pick of our local and international sausages, full bars and friendly atmosphere. Great place to grab a simple beer and a bite in a pinch.
barrel proof
The local Lower Garden District doyens have taken to this whiskey bar in droves. There aren’t many dedicated whiskey bars in New Orleans, so if you’re into brown liquor, this low-ceilinged, windowless room—with more than 300 whiskies, bourbons, ryes, and scotches—is the place to be. You could keep coming for a whole year and never get bored: Selections range from the usual barroom suspects to rare Japanese imports. And if you’re not sure where you stand on whiskey, there are affordable flights to guide your palate.
croissant d’or
This gem in a quiet stretch of the French Quarter earns the French word for bakery—patisserie—for its true-to-Paris pastries. The flaky croissants come in all types, from plain or savory to filled and sweet. Whatever you order, you must get one on the side—other can’t-miss menu items include delicious quiches, chicken or spinach pochettes (pastry pockets) and an array of coffee drinks. Mosey into the charming, personality-filled eatery, grab a snack and a drink, and think of cobblestone lanes and horse-drawn carriages.
casamento’s restaurant
Locals adore this little oyster-centric family-owned restaurant on Magazine Street not just for its lived-in feel and historic cred — it's been around for more than 100 years — but for its Louisiana oysters, which are served raw, fried, stewed, and more. Shuckers pull oysters out of a metal cooler and serve them simply with horseradish, Tabasco, and a wedge of lemon. The famous oyster loaf is a tottering pile of fried oysters tucked between thick slices of buttery pan bread.
willie mae’s
The fried chicken at this soul food joint, now run by the third generation of Seatons, is some of the best you’ll ever eat, as the lines of people from all over the world who form outside before the restaurant opens will testify. It was destroyed in Hurricane Katrina, but reopened in 2007. The key side is butter beans with rice.
domilice’s
Family operated for over 75 years, the longtime divey po’ boy destination in the “sliver by the river” has something of a cult following. Easy to miss, a hand-painted sign signals the entrance to a no-frills time warp of Formica and wood paneling. Original New Orleans Po-Boys. Roast beef, fried shrimp and fried oysters are highly recommended. This is a real local’s New Orleans treat.
parleaux beer lab
Parleaux Beer Lab provides the rare chance to try beer made onsite—and possibly by the person serving you. The beer list changes seasonally and at the owners’ whims, but at any time you’re likely to get a great selection of IPAs, saisons, stouts, and pilsners. Order one of the flights and find a favorite before committing to a larger pour. There’s no onsite kitchen, but there's a regular lineup of food trucks.
elizabeth’s
In 1998, Elizabeth's Restaurant opened in the historic Bywater neighborhood of New Orleans, as a fun hangout, with really good food, where everyone could afford to eat and enjoy. Its motto is "Real food, done real good." A neighborhood staple where going all out is encouraged. The vibe is loud and proud and the crowd is hair-of-the-dog needers . The food…two words: praline bacon.
neyow’s
A favorite of Big Freida’s. Inspired by grandmother’s cooking, Neyow’s authentic creole dishes represent all things New Orleans (including slow service) in the Mid-City neighborhood. A fan-favorite dish includes red beans and rice with fried chicken on top.
la petite grocery
Even though the restaurant is only a decade or so old, it immediately feels like a city institution upon walking in. Starters such as the muscular blue crab beignets hold their own with malt vinegar dressing, while main menu stand-outs include the turtle bolognese, hearty shellfish stew, and LPG cheeseburger. The cocktail menu here is especially strong—the pear brandy used in their version of the local favorite French 75 is a fantastic twist.
bar redux
Bar Redux feels remote, due in large part to the abandoned naval base that looms over the bar’s slender rectangular building. The graffiti game is strong, very strong, in this part of the Bywater, some murals spanning multiple stories of the naval base’s defunct buildings nearby. All of it, just across the street from the Bywater’s more residential area, makes Bar Redux feel like an outpost at the end of the world.
ayu bakehouse
A place where crusty ovals of fragrant sourdough keep company with strawberry tartlets jagged with Ponchatoula fruit and pavlova rounds of meringue scattered with blueberries. Do not miss this cafe! Incredible patries and coffee.
galaxie tacos
A former St. Claude Avenue service station designed by architect Walter Teague reopened as Galaxie, a taqueria blending styles from Oaxaca and Mexico City that makes its own masa for tortillas. The food is regional Mexican — mixing Mexico City-style al pastor, Oaxacan-style barbacoa, and Baja-style fish tacos along with open-faced quesadillas, sides, and starters like chicharrones de queso, a common Mexican snack.
See & Do
